A Trip to London
Towne
In May of 2005 I went to London, ostensibly to watch
the UK premiere of the "house" project I was involved
with.  A change in scheduling prevented my seeing
the show, but freed me to see even more of the UK
and the people I knew there, so in the end it was
good fortune.  Below are some images from the trip
as well as some excerpts from the notebook I
brought with me.  Enjoy.
The notebook entries are just that, notes, so please excuse bad spelling, structure, etc.
May 3, 2005--
At JFK for my flight to Heathrow.  Followed the general advice about getting here over two hours
early.  Time elapsed from when I stepped off the AirTrain to when I arrived at my gate? 10
Minutes.  The fastest I have ever slipped through.  I have eaten and there are
still  2 and 1/2 hours
to go.  It sure beats being late.

A lot of Brit accents around this corner of the airport. Very exciting.  I will soon be in a land where
they are everywhere.  Where I am the one with the accent.  Perhaps I should affect a ridiculous
lisping drawl.  Perhaps not.
Entering London via the tube.  (Makes
great wallpaper!)
The Tube
Video
May 4th, 2005--
Here! Had a hell of a time finding my hotel, the
Albion House Hotel in the maze, the
outrageously bustling, outside
King's Cross station.  The area is supposed to be dodgy @ night.  
I can't wait.  Been walking around, getting my bearings and waiting until I can check in.  I'm in
the Red Lion Gardens now, which is very nice but damn, its chilly here.  Glad I brought my
leather jacket.  I almost didn't.

Everyone here has a British accent!  Stupid, I know, but I can't get over it.  And I'm not sure if
its just the are I'm in, Bloomsbury bordering on Holbein, but all the men are wearing suits.  Most
people are conservatively and smartly dressed.  Reminds me of a US financial district, but
there are no high-rises.  One guidebook letdown so far.
[Let's Go London]  Went to see the
highly recommended Coram's Fields, a park, but got there to find out you cannot enter w/o a
child.  That the 8 year old boys inside and myself share the same sense of humor didn't seem
like it would carry weight.  Looked cool from the outside, though.  Changed my watch to 24
hour time,as it seems that what all train & bus schedules go by.
Images from
that walk.
Horse
Trough
In retrospect, a wiser choice for
my education
May 4rth 13:49--
In the
British Library.  In the museum part of the library, looking @ religious texts.  So many
different scripts!  Each so beautiful.  Such care was taken by those that "wrote" these.  "Wrote"
is a word that doesn't begin to do service to the craftsmanship of these texts.

They have a great interactive room here where you can sit in a cubicle in front of a screen
ands
"virtually" flip through about 8 different books from the collection.  One of Leonardo's
notebooks, Blackwell's herbal, The Golden Hagadah, The Lindisfarne Gospels and more.  
Just went through Davinci's notebook.  It's genius on every damn page.  No "Get milk.  Tell
neighbor to return tools he borrowed" stuff.
Amazing.

Looking at all these original pieces, parts and versions of The Bible just makes a
fundamentalist view of the book that much more absurd.

Science Section Notes:
-Galileo's first work was only 24 pages long.  5 years later it was being translated in China.
-Letters from Sir Isaac Newton and Charles Darwin!
-Darwin's ends with "God knows what the public will think."
-Scott's last diary entry before he died on the way back from the South Pole.
-The only page thought to be in Shakespeare's own hand.
Foreground: British Library.  
Background: Euston Station  amid
renovation.
My blurry notebook.
(not part of the BL
collection)
Some Hindu
Texts.
A very dark manuscript of Ulysses,
I believe....James Joyce
anyhow...after this I saw the very
sensible sign banning photography.
May 4th 18:27--
After a nap and much looking, finally found a place called "
The Olde Mitre Tavern" or "Pub"
or something, in the Holborn section of town.  After a little more reading, I found that the part
of town I have been walking around is the publishing and law center, as well as a lot of the
financial businesses...
Bad sentence, whatever.
So that explains the suits.  Fantastic suits, by the way, far better tailored than their US versions.

So here I am in a place where tons of famous people, ANCIENT famous people, have drank.  
Samuel Johnson, no less.  Very crowded and man-oh-man the heads didn't turn but they
definitely flinch when this American mouth comes open.

Drinking a Tetley's cask drawn bitter and it is very, very good.  It's poured "without a head" but
the creamy 3/16" of foam it does have just lays on top the whole way down, clinging to the
sides.  It makes american beers seem like "beer sodas."

Great thing about this place; NO MUSIC.  Nothing.  No TV, nothing but the sound of people
talking, and so far, everyone in  conversational tones. (It's early, you know)  It's incredibly
relaxing.

The walls here are covered in framed photos and articles.  One is a very old one talking about
this place and its founding in 1546.

My first impression of the city is one of wonderment at how clean and modern it is.  The
buttons to cross the street are even modern and computer-looking.  

And where I have been so far, I am underdressed.

-Did I mention I grew 3 Musketeers facial hair before I arrived?  Oh yeah, I'll be making friends
and influencing people.

-Just overheard a Brit using "I reckon..."  who would have thought?
Grey's Inn Road (taken from my hotel
"downtown")
Two views of literally "just another office
building" in London, down the street from The
Olde Mitre and the Cheshire Cheese.
What dogs pee on in
London.
May 4rth 19:17--
Now at the
Cheshire Cheese.  Not sure how old it is but it is another Samuel Johnson, Charles
Dickens haunt, apparently.  Not that the other place is lying (these two places are about 5 blocks
apart) but this place is a stone's throw from Mr. Johnson's house, so...

Its amazing, as a building.  Its an absolute rabbit warren.  At least 5 tiny rooms up, down and
around stairs, hallways, etc.

And neither of these places would be expensive if i was making and spending English pounds
instead of dollars.

There's a table full of guys without suits to my left.  A first in my fledgling bar travels.
I  ate here, ordering the soup of the day and a cheese and fruit plate which was excellent,
helped along by a pint and the peasant-style wooden table and bench setup in the basement
area I was in.
May 4rth 23:51
On the
Piccadilly Line of the Tube, on my way back from meeting the Vorhees Family (CH
participants)
, Mary (CH Producer), Simon (CH sound recordist), and Sallie (CH Series Producer).  
We met in the bar of the Holiday Inn that the V. Family is staying in.

We are in London, for crying out loud, and we met in the bar of the Holiday Inn.  Ridiculous.
(reading this now, you can tell I don't have to worry about a child, can't you...)

Dominic was supposed to be there but his injuries precluded his attendance.  He apparently tried
to rescue some damsel in distress and got beat up.  30 stitches beat up.  No good deed goes
unpunished.
May 5th-
Today i got up @ 7:30, took a shower, shaved off the ridiculous moustache I wore over here and
leaving my bags for picking up later, checked out and tried Claire from a pay phone.  She didn't
answer, which is what I expected.  She had told me she was working but it slipped from the
Vorhees she's taking them somewhere over the next two days.  An odd and unnecessary piece of
subterfuge.  I'm thinking its probably just a matter of trying to smooth an accident of scheduling,
but it is always startling to find yourself the victim of a lie, no matter how white.  Pretty typical
from both those women.  So, on my own for breakfast I went to King's Cross Station to fall into the
pattern of the Londonite at Rush Hour.
King's Cross Station,
where even the police
dogs  are quaint!
Once again the place, which is i believe London's largest and it's busiest station (probably
wrong)
, was clean and fresh looking.  It really is almost surreal to travel around a subway system
and never smell pee.
I ordered some sort of "omelet"-their word-tomato and bacon on a roll thing and a coffee, which
was the 'americano' version of espresso diluted with hot water.  I sat and just watched the
teeming horde of workers rushing by while I ate, ten joined them on my way to Westminster
Station.  It all runs very smoothly.  Maybe it's a cultural thing, and I have only been on a couple
of days, but where are the REALLY slow fat people?  The crack heads?  The folks who gum up
the work?
I've got to find the other side before I leave.


(This next part written after the fact on May 7th but put here to keep the reading of things in
chronological order.)

After the rush hour tube ride to Westminster Station I walked up the stairs, into the light and for
Fuck's Sake, there's Big Ben!  People told me it was unimpressive in "person" but although it
certainly doesn't look as massive as it does in photographs, it is still pretty damn impressive.  
Walked over to Westminster Abbey and was one of the first people through the door, just as they
suggested in the guidebook.  What they don't tell you in the guidebook is that even as one of the
few
individuals in there at that time in the morning, you;re still going to have to fight tour groups
who also seem to start right when it opens.

It is a beautiful, massive structure, but it is also a bit creepy.  There are a LOT of dead people
lying around in there!  You're walking over and between remains all the time.
The curse-inducing view at
the top of the stairs at
Westminster Station
No time for a full shower when you're
the savior of a nation.  "Think I'm bad?
You oughta smell Nelson!"
Big Ben with the
Millennium Wheel in
background.
"Abbey
Something..."
A Sundial.  In England.  I'll just leave it at
that...
Dark Days for our
hero.
Quite amazing, though, so much history under one roof.  Seeing the markers and tributes to Britain's
heroes, it comes to you that Lord Nelson and the boys of the RAF in the Battle of Britain both saved the
country.  To see the RAF given their own nook, just like some previous kings, it reminds you that we
(Americans) have never been in that position, where it really didn't look too good...

It puts things in perspective.  I came across one marker, which I copied earlier in this notebook, that I
thought was beautiful, if a little depressing.  It's about youth and the action s of youth and fit in well with
my obsession with how i wasted mine.  But thats an issue for a different time...

Walked around a bit after the Abbey and opted against Buckingham Palace in favor of the much closer
Cabinet War Rooms, preserved intact from the days of WWII.  It was pretty cool, but a little polished and
behind glass for me.  I love the simplicity of the hardware from that era, the natural fibers and the
general lack of plastic.  Seeing the very spartan conditions the most powerful men in England lived
under, it was quite a wake up call/change of perspective.  They won a world war living out of a small
suitcase, sleeping on tiny twin beds in 8X10 rooms.  The sacrifices people made in those days is
embarrassing.
Living conditions of the English Cabinet
during The Blitz.
The minister in charge of getting these bunkers built was a Navy man, and used naval building
techniques from time to time.  In two of these photos you can see an example of this with the support
posts.  They were put into position and then wedged up with shims.    

Two people will find that interesting...
Walked past Downing Street over to the changing of the horse guards, which was kind of cool.  Then on into
Trafalgar Square with the HUGE statue of
Lord Nelson. Obviously I haven't travelled, so I don't know, but
how many countries have admiral's statues placed so much higher than those of kings?  Even George
Washington is honored here.  The Egalitarian/Classist give and take here is mesmerizing.

Looking for a place to eat I ended up by Embankment Station and decided to have a little picnic in
Victoria Gardens.  I went into a little sandwich-type place and ordered a Cornish Patsy which is a hot "pie"
filled with something...  I ordered blind and no one has volunteered the contents.
The Horse
Gaurds
Embankment
Station
A Dull Horse Gaurd
Video
I also bought a bag of "crisps", though I did opt for the very tame Salt and Pepper flavor rather than the Beef
and Onion or Shrimp Scampi flavors.


At this point I took my food and walked across the street to the Victoria Embankment, a beautiful area with
gardens, small fountains and, across the street right on the water, an obelisk from Egypt.
Images from the Victoria
Embankment
Then it was up to Fleet Street and The Strand, seeing a bunch of theatres, the opera house and Covent
Garden Market, which proves every city needs a place full of stalls full of crap.  
The
Savoy
The Typical State of the Public Restroom
in London
Grey's Inn and a message on it's grounds from former
tenant Francis Bacon:
I almost stopped in to the Halls of Justice or whatever they call it, to see the guys in wigs, but ran out of time,
having to high-tail it back to make the train, which I
just did, at Euston Station.
Where my train is about to pull in...



May 5th 16:13 (on the train to Manchester)
The area of London I have seen, the Central-to-Eastern side, for the most part, is meticulous in most things but
in particular in regards to the flora.  I have seen two very small (maybe 50sq.yd.) stretches of untended vacant
lot and in both cases the presence of shin-high grass and weeds gave the appearance in context of wildly
unkempt jungle.  Refreshing.

What I see out the window of the train is also generally well cared for.  From the elevated height of the tracks it
is possible to see into the back "gardens" of the classic English row houses-or are they townhouses, I don't know
the difference, do I?-and maybe one in a hundred is just gone to seed. Of course, i am seeing the narrowest
sliver of geography.  True, there has been actual sun for about 2% of the time I have been here, but the rain
has certainly held up to it's end of the bargain and produced a landscape of incredibly lush greens.

I'm not sure if its alfalfa or grass the sheep and cows are munching on around here, but it looks as if you could
fall on it from a plane without breaking a bone.  

Not sure if its one continuous canal or several that roughly parallel these north-south tracks, but
canal boats on
them are gorgeous.  Are they campers? Working boats?  I'll have to find out.  
One interesting note.  I am 1 1/2 hours into the trip on this insanely fast train ans large groups of trees just
started appearing. Handwriting is suffering as the train has accelerated to easily over 100mph.  So fast that
when you hit a tunnel, your ears pop.

Also kind of interesting; It is just now, two days in (gosh-it seems longer! Maybe jet lag?) that I have had my first
tea of the trip, ordered off a cart they push through the aisle here on
Virgin Rail.  The train is more like an
American plane.  The folks at the station were very helpful as well.  Really very helpful and friendly people in
all the service sectors I've dealt with, though I've noticed I've never been offered help any of the tons of times
I've been standing on the street with a guidebook map, trying to figure out where to go next or just to get my
bearings.  In New York, that would be reversed.  Help on the street corner, not in a shop.

They have a First Class on this train, I wonder how much more that is.  This round trip was over $100.00. The
exchange rate is murder.
Just saw my first 18 wheeler.  There are no giant trucks in London.  It definitely improves the quality of life.  
What there are, in great numbers, are scooters and motorcycles.  You see lots of guys in smart suits with a
briefcase in one hand and a helmet in the other.  There are also tons of motorcycle couriers in full, ballistic
nylon cycling outfits and motorcycle boots.
Awesome look.
I saw a scooter delivery guy with an apparatus on his handlebars that allowed him to have a clipboard where
a low windshield would be.  It hardly seems it could be legal.

I later learned this was probably a wannabe London Cabbie, studying "The Knowledge".  They ride around
with maps of London in front of them like that for literally years (3? 4?), learning every address and street in
London and the quickest way to get from one to another.  Amazing.
On the subject of my room; I like it.  It is tiny and simple and a fourth floor walk up.  It has a list in plastic
attached to the door describing the contents therein in case an occupant might mistakenly leave with an item.

"Small Television, towel, small refrigerator, electric kettle, ashtray."
There is also a twin bed.  Just enough.
The bathroom is next door and is a 5' X 2.5' room completely enclosed in fiberglass with a toilet at one end
and a shower head on the other.  There is a rise in the floor to separate any overflow from one half of the
room from reaching the other.

-Just passed a country hardware store called "S&M Supplies"

-I would never have imagined I would see as many Hasidim here on a daily basis as I do in NYC.  There are
several on the train.

Busy day before I got on the train, but we're getting ready to pull into the station...


SOON: MANCHESTER!
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